Candle Making Procedures / No Detail Is Too Small

No Detail Is Too SmallI want you to think back to the first few times you made a candle. It probably looked OK sitting there in its mold, and you were proud of it because you did all the right things. You followed the Candle Making Procedure, because you knew No Detail Is Too Small.

You selected the correct wax, scent (fragrance), and color. And you let the candle cool overnight just to be sure. Then that morning you removed the candle from the mold. Oh my gosh, the candle didn’t stand up to your expectations. You could not understand why.

OK, So What Are You Doing Wrong?Questions

This scenario may often happen if you don’t control the entire process from beginning to end. In this post we are going to discuss some thing that you may not been aware of to keep this from happening. You may have not used certain products, or left out certain steps that could’ve helped you make sure the whole process was controlled as much as possible.

Let’s discuss some of them now:


Temperature is the main variant with all types of wax without a doubt. Temperature is of the utmost importance. It is so important that I will be writing a post on it next week. In candle making there are three temperatures that need to be controlled. 

Those three are: Temperature

  • The pouring temperature of the wax.
  • The temperature of the room you are pouring in. ​
  • The temperature of the container, or mold.

For example, if you are using paraffin wax you will get a better finish when it is poured at a slightly higher temperature. For safety reasons always monitor the temperature of your wax. Never let your wax reach flash point which is 390.2 degrees F (199 degrees C) for paraffin wax, and for paraffin wax with additives 480.2 degrees F (249 degrees C). On the flip side if you are using a natural wax pouring at a lower temperature may help hold the fragrance in the candle better as well as eliminate the candle from sweating. 

With almost any wax you are using you should preheat the mold, or container. This is definitely recommended in the winter time, or during months of high humidity. When you preheat the mold or container always use a dry heat source such as a hair dryer, heat gun or even the oven on its lowest temperature. Never use hot water because it produces moister which is a definite no, no!


I think we all realize that scent, is a main factor in what sells most candles. Although during the making of your candle, it may also be responsible for the candle not turning out properly. For instance, if you are using a straight paraffin wax, and the candle begins to sweat, it is usually a sign that you are using too much scent (fragrance).

By adding a small amount ½ to 2 % of Vybar 130 which is a wax additive for freestanding candles, such as pillars. It has a 150 degree F melt point. Add it to the wax to help eliminate bubbles and mottling. It also acts as an oil binder. It is for uses with paraffin waxes with melting points over 130 degrees F and Vybar 260 which is a wax additive for container candles it has a 130 degree F melting point will help correct this problem. I purchase mine from Candlewic Candle Supply, you can reach them by Clicking Here.

You need to be cautious here though, you do not want to use too much Vybar 130 or 260 because it will affect the scent throw of your candle, and in some cases cause the candle to wrinkle on top.

In soy candles a common problem is getting enough scent (fragrance) in your candle so it has a good scent throw whether it is cold or hot. Also, if your soy candle has crusting on top, or the candle is sweating, there may be a number of ways to correct it. You might try pouring the wax at a cooler temperature, or pour in an area where there are no drafts. If the area you are pouring in is too cold it may result in sweating also.

Some soy waxes can even be poured at 100 degrees F. Something else that can be done would be to add 5 to 10 percent palm stearic to your formula. Last you can reduce the amount of sent (fragrance) in the candle. This is my least and most undesirable recommendation though. I purchase my scents from Candlewic Candle Supply .


It doesn’t matter if you are a Newbie or seasoned Candle Maker the day will come when you have a pillar candle that will not come out of the mold. It is most definitely stuck! As a Candle Maker you are always experimenting with different waxes, scents, colors, and shapes. Sooner or later one of your formulas is going to get stuck in the mold. I have making Candles for over twenty years, and it still happens to me from time to time. So don’t get discouraged if it should happen to you.

The way to avoid this is to spray your mold with a mold release and pour your wax at a slightly higher temperature rather than the recommended pouring temperature. If after doing this the candle is still stuck, put it in your freezer for about thirty minutes. This should help the Candle release from the mold. This is exactly what I do. You can get mold release by Clicking Here .


​Color fading is one of the more prevalent problem that you will face. It can happen just a few days after pouring, or days or weeks later. That beautiful color you created has faded. Now what are you to do to avoid this?

Your solution to this is to use a UV Light Stabilizer. This helps the candle from fading due to ultra-violet light. You need to use both UV531 and UV5411. This is a two part solution to prevent fading. Experience has shown that by adding equal parts of UV531 and UV5411 at .001% works very well for most colors. Pastels, blues and lavenders will fade more quickly and require a larger amount.

For large batches use 1/10 or 45 grams per 100 pounds of wax. For small batches use ½ teaspoon of each to 10 pound of wax. You can get UV Light Stabilizer by Clicking Here .


The biggest problem when it comes to wicks is off center wicks. It is not always visible, but the wick may be off center somewhere in the candle. It is so important that the wick stays centered the entire length of the candle. Each individual type of candle needs a different method to ensure a centered wick.

For instance round pillar molds have pins that slide up through the bottom to ensure the wick is centered. This is an excellent way to eliminate the time-consuming chore of wicking the mold, and ensuring that the wax does not leak out. As, for votives this can easily be achieved by using votive pins. Another choice is to use the self centering votive tabs.

When using, containers the wick stick is an excellent device to help you keep the wick centered in the container. The only draw back is it can only be used in waxes that need topping off. One of my favorites is glue dots. Glue dots allow you to secure the wick on the bottom of the container, and then secure the top with a wick bar. You can find these helpers at Candlewic Candle Supplies .

Final NotesFinal Notes

My most important suggestion and recommendation is to always monitor each and every step of your Candle Making process. If you do this you will continue to have the same results and look each and every time.

I thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to read this post, and that it has helped you have a better understanding of the importance of the CANDLE MAKING PROCEDURE / NO DETAIL IS TOO SMALL.

To see my post on Save Money On Candle Making Supplies Click here now.

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